The nonprofit Fraunhofer Center for Sustainable Energy Systems (CSE), based in Boston, is piloting a turnkey system, which they hope to make available commercially in 2017. Their goal is to dramatically reduce soft costs such as permitting, installation and interconnection, which make up more than half the total cost of residential rooftop solar energy systems. By simplifying the process, they intend to bring down the cost of PV installation to $1.50/watt by 2020 from the current average of $4/watt.
The solution, of course, is to promote time-of-use: when there is surplus production during the day, lower the price. That will encourage day-time electric car charging, especially at workplaces. It’s crazy that the electric industry is complaining about both having too much solar during the daytime, and not being able to handle the load for charging all the future electric cars (to be fair, I think it is the auto industry that is trying to find ways to tarnish electric vehicles).
Once you figure out where to put the long “lines” shown above, you measure them out and snap chalk lines right over top of your existing roof material. Then, use some sturdy 2.5″ lag bolts and washers to hold down the L-shaped brackets that come with the solar racking kit. Pre-drill each hole, and inject in some “Through the Roof” sealant with a normal caulk gun before driving in those bolts – this creates a permanent watertight seal. (There are also special brackets to accommodate different roof styles like tile and metal).
These small items are minor but essential for making your solar panel kit work. You will need, among other items a solar combiner box, AC breaker panel, DC Breaker box, DC breakers, battery cables, remote temperature sensor, AC and DC wire and solar power cables. Cables and connectors on the solar panels we carry above 80 watts are generally manufactured with PV wire into the panel junction box that are listed to UL 1703. This can save time during installation. The modules with MC4 cable connectors are fully waterproof when connected, touch protected and designed for up to 600 volts DC and 30 Amps. It is important to keep in mind that PV cables cannot be safely disconnected under load. All of our grid tied and off-grid output cables are made with UV resistant wire that is Listed to UL 854. You may also wish to add other solar accessories. Blue Pacific Solar® also carries a variety of cable adapters that enable use of optimizers or microinverters that may not be available with the same connector type as the module chosen for the job.
This is great for those broken solar panels due to storms. Got a lot of people asking about how to salvage the scrap and I don't know how to before I came to this site.Great tutorial. But I have a question.. how much wattage does this "thing" produce? If anyone want to know more about solar panels feel free to visit my site: Solar panels for your home
Let’s also remember the carbon cost of fossil fuels is not just limited to the consumption of the fuel at the point of power generation. It takes a huge amount of energy to bring the oil or natural gas to the point of generation. From manufacturing of the steel well casing and pipeline, drill rig operation, fracturing operations, transport, and refinement. Not to mention the small army of oilfield workers driving around the field each day I F-150s to maintain the equipment, gauge tanks, etc. Then you have to consider the inefficiencies of transporting the energy from fossil fuel generation from centralized locations long distances to the point of consumption; whereas distributed power (i.e., rooftop solar) is consumed at the point of generation typically. I don’t have hard numbers, but I’d bet a lot that the one-time carbon cost of manufacturing the panels is less than the total carbon cost of bringing a similar amount of carbon-based fuel to market once you factor in all the above (exploration, development, transport, refinement, generation, and distribution).
This is an excellent product. I'm using 4 of these panels wired in series/parallel for 24 volts/400 watts. In full sunlight, I've seen my 4 panels reach ~395 watts. This is amazing efficiency for for such an affordable panel. I've tested each panel with a multimeter and have my panel array hooked to a digital volt meter. I can say that the panels perform to their advertised specifications.
In most cases, it is quite advantageous to interconnect a small turbine with the customer's utility service, thereby using the utility for backup power to cover the variability of the turbine's energy production as well as storage of excess energy. Such interconnection typically requires utility permission, which is usually in the form of an interconnection agreement. This agreement will address metering and billing arrangements with the utility and may include requirements for additional safety equipment or procedures, protection devices, and inspections.
Federal regulations (the Public Utility Regulatory Policies Act of 1978, or PURPA) require utilities to connect with and purchase power from small wind energy systems. However, you should contact your utility before purchasing a wind turbine system and connecting to their distribution lines to address any power quality and safety concerns. Your utility can provide you with a list of requirements for connecting your system to the grid. The American Wind Energy Association (AWEA) is another good source for information on utility interconnection requirements. AWEA contributed much of the following information.
However, you are going to have to pay a licensed contractor to install the system and much of this savings may go to them. Because most licensed and experienced solar electricians work for solar companies they will often charge quite a lot for installation because they perceive they have lost the ability to make any margin on equipment. This may change over time but currently this is a big factor in why it is very difficult to save much money from a DIY solar project.
The key to making it all work cost effectively is a really cost-effective system to bolt together over the existing parking spaces. If you can minimize the engineering, steel, concrete and building permit aspects, then things start looking much better. (The same argument applies to choosing small, lightweight bike infrastructure over the massive stuff we need to build to support cars!)