Matched this PMA up with a Six-Pack of Air-X Blades after buying it on Ebay. The BladeSpeed was mindboggling and the Volt meter went to 110+ during one gust. Saturday, July 11th 2009 about 3:30 p.m. Mohawk Highlands N.Y. Average for the day was about 40-50v in 12-16mph winds. 11ft. Tower. I highly recommend this product. The mount is very sturdy and pivots perfectly on the (Teflon) washer. Excellent customer service, shipping, and packaging. I've been building these for about six months. I've experimented with many kinds of motor and blades.
The 800-watt inverter (with a 2,000-watt surge capacity) will run a small vacuum cleaner, a drill or a small drill press, a sander, a jigsaw or small band saw, but not a large circular saw. It will handle many toasters and coffee makers, but not all. A blender would be child's play for this inverter, a microwave an impossibility. A hair dryer on low, yes; on high, forget it.
Although these larger panels aren't as common as solar-powered calculators, they're out there and not that hard to spot if you know where to look. In fact, photovoltaics -- which were once used almost exclusively in space, powering satellites' electrical systems as far back as 1958 -- are being used more and more in less exotic ways. The technology continues to pop up in new devices all the time, from sunglasses to electric vehicle charging stations.
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For simple installations such as solar garden lighting or heating your swimming pool with the power of the sun, there are viable, effective, and affordable DIY options on the market. However, with larger projects, such as whole-house solar, the process requires quite a bit of knowledge of electrical systems. Here are a few things to consider before going forward with your DIY solar project.

Of the various configurations — grid-tied, grid-assisted and off-grid — offered by Wholesale Solar, based in Shasta, Calif., the most popular and least expensive are grid-tied that allow you to route excess power into the electric grid for compensation from the utility company. A simple 10-panel grid-tied system that produces 353kWh a month costs about $5,400. At the other end of the scale, an 80-panel system that produces 3,091 kWh a month cost about $43,000. (Note: These are ballpark costs before subtracting up to 30% for the Federal Tax Credit, state rebates or other financial incentives.) 

Mind you, in the upper Midwest, it won't produce near the power it did in the southern desert. It produces 5-6 Amps in "full sunlight" which means no clouds, no trees, no buildings. Low angle sun in the north doesn't deliver near the illumination that high angle southern desert sun does. This is why solar doesn't pay back in Detroit, Chicago or Minneapolis. Not enough sun.


Maybe you've considered solar energy - even if only for a brief moment - only to dismiss it as too complicated and too expensive, or maybe you're seriously considering a project, but don't know where to start. With this Instructable, I hope to demystify the (not-really) intimidating process of installing solar panels in your home. We'll review the parts of a solar panel system, the things you need to consider when you're planning, and how you can save money on (and even get free money for) your project. At the end of the day, you'll know what to look for and what to keep in mind with any solar project.

Costs in addition to the turbine and the tower are the balance of system, including parts and labor, which will depend on your application. Most manufacturers can provide you with a system package that includes all the parts you need for your application. For example, the parts required for a water-pumping system will be different from the parts required for a residential, grid-connected application. The balance of system equipment required will also depend on whether the system is grid-connected, stand-alone, or part of a hybrid system. For a residential grid-connected application, the balance of system parts may include a controller, storage batteries, a power conditioning unit (inverter), wiring, foundation, and installation. Many wind turbine controllers, inverters, or other electrical devices may be stamped by a recognized testing agency, such as Underwriters Laboratories or Intertek.
Rays of sunlight hit solar cells, pushing the electrons in the cell through the wires to create electricity. This electricity is in one direction, so it is called DC, for Direct Current. As opposed to AC, for Alternating Current, where the electrons are going back and forth 50-60 times (50-60Hz) per second. That is why for most installations, you need an inverter. An inverter changes the DC to AC and makes it usable with your home's appliances.

To your utter dismay, these panels’ own a massive shortcoming. They don’t work after day-time. Big mess up! Actually not, save charges with batteries and gracefully, the controller has auto-detect feature that can select itself from 12v or 24v battery. In case, you join only 1 solar panel, 12v battery should be the thing, and the 24v one is applicable for 2 panels.


I myself have yet to get a power bill measured in watts. The measure that is used is kilo watt hours. This simply means the use of 1000 watts a load for an entire hour. This is used to calculate how much power is used and how to size renewable energy systems. In the discussion as it relates to small wind generators it would be it would give a better understanding to consider which would produce more kilo watt hours in a day.


While we cannot defy the laws of physics as the current advertised power output values of many companies selling these type of products do. Hurricane products have a proven track record of producing more power over time than any of the other leading brands we have tested. Our buck boost mppt controllers and larger blade swept area and generator rotor and stators coupled with our buck boost MPPT controllers just make more power over time period.
So he's having to carefully conserve so much that it has changed his lifestyle. Meanwhile, with my grid tie system, I'm able to run the A/C, hairdriers, TVs, anything I want, and still spend no money for power. Looking at his roof, my system is about 1/3 of his size, physically. There is one difference: If the power goes out, I have no power, but he does. To me, having all the power I want, when I need it, for free, I can suffer through an outage once or twice a year. So even if he didn't have any battery cost whatsoever, I would never advise anyone to do what he did, unless they are just really into it. For him, it's a hobby, a labor of love, and all that. That's great for him, but it's not what most people are in this for, they just want to save money or get off the grid without understanding the ramifications. Even if there WAS a ROI, you'd have to value your time at zero to realize that.
Besides that, the stakes are high—this is going on your roof, after all. “This is a big one. This is one where you can’t say, ‘well, if I make a mistake, the next time I’ll know better,’” says Jane Weissman, the president and CEO of the nonprofit Interstate Renewable Energy Council, which just released a consumer checklist and other resources for rooftop solar.
This can get a bit tricky, but once you get the hang of it, can be done fast enough. First, some technical notes: In order to get higher voltage, you need to connect two cells in series. This means that the negative part of the first connects to the positive part of the second. As you continue to add more cells in series, you will get a higher voltage from side to side on your solar strip. This is all good, but if your cells are small-ish, they won't generate much amperage. So even if you have a high voltage, you probably won't be able to give it any load (probably will hardly light an LED). In order to get higher amperage through the circuit, you need to connect cells in parallel (positive side to positive side, negative side to negative side). When you do this, make sure the positive and negative leads (copper mesh in this case) don't short themselves out.
Glue all cans together using adhesive silicone resistant to high temperatures, at least up to 200°C/400°F. There are glues and silicons on the market that can easily withstand temperatures up to 300°C/570°F. Top and bottom of all pop cans are compatible and fit perfectly one onto another. Put some glue or silicone on the edge of one can and press it against the other. In this way the glue/silicone will not run away from the edge. Picture 4 shows inside view of two pop cans glued together, while series of stacked and finished cans is shown in Picture 5.
turbine installed and running - sustained a storm last night with steady winds before the storm of up to 25 mph, then the storm hit and gusts in excess of 40 mph - the wind turbine sustained no damage and is still running this morning. My sister's house lost power for 5 hours, however, the turbine is set up to run the ice box, the ice box never lost power, everything is still... [green backup power]
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After reading this article and investigating permits and all that BS, I can finally understand why so few people in this country have solar. My son and I installed my entire system, 3 kW, for $5,000, and after the 30% tax credit, my total cost was $3,500. That’s $1.17/kW. Inverters have come down since then and I could do the same job today for under $1/kW. For people with basic DIY skills including basic electrical wiring, it IS a simple process contrary to everything you read. In my area, there are no building codes, no zoning laws, no permits, (that’s what “freedom” looks like in case you’re wondering) so we did our own research and installed it how we wanted. We did a roof-top installation. Rail mounting systems are very expensive so we made our own using composite deck boards. They are some kind of recycled synthetic material and will last 200 years and are inexpensive. The solar panels come with a positive and a negative wire. You don’t have to try to figure out any wiring with those, they come prewired with male and female fittings so you can’t screw it up even if you try. After they are all hooked together, you end up with a positive and a negative wire. Those plug into your inverter in well-marked places so it is hard to screw this part up. If you do it at night, there is zero chance of getting electrocuted. From the inverter, you have two hots, a neutral, and a ground that plug into a 220-amp breaker in your electrical panel. Those places are also well marked in the inverter and hard to mess up. If you can install a water heater, you can install solar panels. It’s that simple. The biggest problem with solar is that everybody wants to make money off you along the way. The guy I bought my panels from wouldn’t even answer any questions because he was pissed I was doing my own installation. My electric co-op requires a professional electrician to pass everything off before they let you grid-tie. It was nearly impossible to find an electrician who would pass it off. Every one of them said the same thing, “If I didn’t install it, I’m not doing the inspection.” I finally got a guy out here. It took him 8 minutes to pass me off and sign the paper. I paid him $100. How long does it take to check a two AC wires (positive and negative) and three AC wires, plus two grounds? Give me a break. I would have given the guy $200 I was just so glad to finally get someone to look at it. I had everything open and ready when he got here. I walked him through it all explaining how each section was NEC compliant. He got his equipment out and did his testing and like I said, he was done in 8 minutes.
Small wind energy systems can be connected to the electricity distribution system. A grid-connected wind turbine can reduce your consumption of utility-supplied electricity for lighting, appliances, and electric heat. If the turbine cannot deliver the amount of energy you need, the utility makes up the difference. When the wind system produces more electricity than the household requires, the excess is sent or sold to the utility. These arrangements with the utility company are typically called net metering or net billing, and they address the value of the electricity sold or net excess generation, the time period for valuing the electricity (typically annually or monthly), and any other contractual requirements with the utility.
The soldering is super easy and will go fast once you get the hang of it.  This is a great first soldering project because it is so easy.  Put the cells face down on the table and bring the tab from the front of one cell to the back of the next one.  There will be metal squares or pads on the back of the cell.  Press the tab down on the metal pad with the soldering iron to heat them and then press the solder on the tab.  The solder will melt and attach the tab to the pad.  If you aren’t experienced at soldering, make sure you heat the metal and apply solder to the metal.  Do not heat the solder.  If you end up with the tab connected to the pad and nice shiny solder, you’re doing it right.  Keep going until you have 9 cells in line like this.
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