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You might love the idea of producing alternative energy in your home. Fine, technology has indeed brought us different solutions to easily make power right anywhere. Setting up residential wind turbine kits in your home or worksite is surely one of the coolest ways to contribute a share of green energy to your daily needs. Thus, you become a part of the world’s strive to end huge reliance on the depleting traditional sources of power.
The best way to do a green energy project for the home is to get a kit of perfectly matched components engineered to work as planned. First options in choosing your kit are, wind only, or wind AND solar. Having a hybrid wind AND solar system is really going to make it a more consistant green energy system. We can't all afford a giant windmill or solar system, these WindEnergy7 kits are affordable. Below is a graph showing the weather cycles of wind/solar and why wind/solar hybrid is so much better than solar only, or wind only systems. .... [wind turbine guide]

That has been our list of the ten brilliant residential wind turbine kits. Though all the above models are fully functional, you might be wondering how effective a residential wind turbine is. Usually, we are familiar with wind turbines as part of large power plants only. But is a time you can yourself try out a small wind turbine in your home, worksite, garage, or cabin. No doubt, you will start to love a wind turbine along with a solar panel. Even if there is no sun in the sky, wind turbines continue to produce green energy for you from the breezes.
The reliability of small wind turbines is (still) problematic. Even the good ones break much more frequently than we would like, and none will run for 20 years without the need to replace at least some part(s). Despite their apparent simplicity, a small wind turbine is nowhere near as reliable as the average car (and even cars will not run for 20 years without stuff breaking). If you are going to install a small wind turbine you should expect that it will break. The only questions are when and how often.
I've actually constructed solar panels for my house and a couple family members' homes. However, I used a solar panel kit rather than recycled photovoltaic cells. I'm sure this is a cheaper method (by far), but it definitely sounds a bit more technical. If this is your first attempt to construct a solar panel, I recommend using a kit rather than building it from recycled cells. I followed the directions at Do It Yourself Energy, which has numerous guides on both solar and wind energy.
Your diy solar panels need a container to hold the cells. You can build a box to hold the cells out of many different kinds of material like wood or aluminum.  The easiest for most people to work with is wood.  Use your substrate as a guide for how big you need the container to be.  Plywood works fine for the back and ¾” square wood for the sides, but you can use whatever you happen to have.
This is an excellent product. I'm using 4 of these panels wired in series/parallel for 24 volts/400 watts. In full sunlight, I've seen my 4 panels reach ~395 watts. This is amazing efficiency for for such an affordable panel. I've tested each panel with a multimeter and have my panel array hooked to a digital volt meter. I can say that the panels perform to their advertised specifications.
“Do I need some of those Tesla Powerwall Batteries too?” No. Unless you’re building an off-the-grid cabin, in almost all cases you will want to “grid-tie” your solar array, so you can effectively sell your surplus electricity back to the power company (and thus, other nearby customers), cleaning up your whole town and saving the huge cost of batteries. The Powerwall works great if you want protection from power outages, however, and can even pay for itself if you live somewhere with a smart grid that allows day/night price arbitrage.
The U.S. Department of Energy funds the Wind for Schools project, which helps develop a future wind energy workforce by engaging students at higher education institutions to join Wind Application Centers and serve as project consultants for small wind turbine installations at rural elementary and secondary schools. Teacher training and hands-on curricula are implemented at each K-12 host school to bring the wind turbine into the classroom through interactive and interschool research tasks, engaging young people interested in science.
Matched this PMA up with a Six-Pack of Air-X Blades after buying it on Ebay. The BladeSpeed was mindboggling and the Volt meter went to 110+ during one gust. Saturday, July 11th 2009 about 3:30 p.m. Mohawk Highlands N.Y. Average for the day was about 40-50v in 12-16mph winds. 11ft. Tower. I highly recommend this product. The mount is very sturdy and pivots perfectly on the (Teflon) washer. Excellent customer service, shipping, and packaging. I've been building these for about six months. I've experimented with many kinds of motor and blades.

Mind you, in the upper Midwest, it won't produce near the power it did in the southern desert. It produces 5-6 Amps in "full sunlight" which means no clouds, no trees, no buildings. Low angle sun in the north doesn't deliver near the illumination that high angle southern desert sun does. This is why solar doesn't pay back in Detroit, Chicago or Minneapolis. Not enough sun.
After reading this article and investigating permits and all that BS, I can finally understand why so few people in this country have solar. My son and I installed my entire system, 3 kW, for $5,000, and after the 30% tax credit, my total cost was $3,500. That’s $1.17/kW. Inverters have come down since then and I could do the same job today for under $1/kW. For people with basic DIY skills including basic electrical wiring, it IS a simple process contrary to everything you read. In my area, there are no building codes, no zoning laws, no permits, (that’s what “freedom” looks like in case you’re wondering) so we did our own research and installed it how we wanted. We did a roof-top installation. Rail mounting systems are very expensive so we made our own using composite deck boards. They are some kind of recycled synthetic material and will last 200 years and are inexpensive. The solar panels come with a positive and a negative wire. You don’t have to try to figure out any wiring with those, they come prewired with male and female fittings so you can’t screw it up even if you try. After they are all hooked together, you end up with a positive and a negative wire. Those plug into your inverter in well-marked places so it is hard to screw this part up. If you do it at night, there is zero chance of getting electrocuted. From the inverter, you have two hots, a neutral, and a ground that plug into a 220-amp breaker in your electrical panel. Those places are also well marked in the inverter and hard to mess up. If you can install a water heater, you can install solar panels. It’s that simple. The biggest problem with solar is that everybody wants to make money off you along the way. The guy I bought my panels from wouldn’t even answer any questions because he was pissed I was doing my own installation. My electric co-op requires a professional electrician to pass everything off before they let you grid-tie. It was nearly impossible to find an electrician who would pass it off. Every one of them said the same thing, “If I didn’t install it, I’m not doing the inspection.” I finally got a guy out here. It took him 8 minutes to pass me off and sign the paper. I paid him $100. How long does it take to check a two AC wires (positive and negative) and three AC wires, plus two grounds? Give me a break. I would have given the guy $200 I was just so glad to finally get someone to look at it. I had everything open and ready when he got here. I walked him through it all explaining how each section was NEC compliant. He got his equipment out and did his testing and like I said, he was done in 8 minutes.

Next step is preparation, protection and painting of timber box (solar panel housing). Special hooks have to be attached to all four corners of the solar collector, so that it can be easily mounted on the wall (Fig. 16) using 10mm/0.4in screws (Fig. 17). Empty box is placed on the wall in order to precisely mark the spot for drilling the air inlet/exhaust.
You will need some basic tools to build your diy solar panel.  First, you will need basic woodworking tools like saw, drill and screwdriver.  You will also need silicone caulk and wood glue.  For the wiring, you will need wire cutters, wire strippers, a soldering iron and solder.  You can pick up most of the tools at your local hardware store.  Radio shack sells soldering irons and solder.
With the exception of the inverter, this system can be easily expanded. Any number of similar modules can be wired together in parallel, so long as the modules are of the same wattage. The 6-amp charge controller can manage up to three 32-watt modules, and extra charge controllers can be wired into the system, in parallel, as your lust for power begins to swell.
Only a community cooperative, municipal corporation or public-private partnership should buy a wind turbine. And when a community invests in wind energy, it should buy and build as aggressively and ambitiously as apparently crazy visionaries recommend, because wind power benefits from economies of size and scale. Bigger always is better; more and mightier always work better than just a few little ones. Although the biggest and best industrial wind turbines cost more than $1 million each, the more generators a community buys and installs, the more quickly they pay for themselves; and the higher the towers soar, the more electricity each wind turbine generates.
Picking an inverter for your system is pretty important. Fortunately, there's not too much room for error. You need to make sure that you're buying a grid-tie inverter, rather than off-grid. You'll also need to check the wattage rating to make sure it can handle your solar array. Finally, you can consider buying micro inverters. Remember how I said that a single panel in the shade can affect the efficiency of your entire system? A micro inverter system uses a small inverter for each panel, instead of one inverter for all of the panels. The shoddy performance of one panel won't be able to affect the rest of the system.
This is great. With all the things going on around us about solar energy we forget that fundamentally solar energy is the natural evolution of the electricity, power and energy industry. If the consumer also becomes the generator and all are electricity self sufficient where solar solutions seem to be going then imagine what fantastic future we can build for ourselves.

A residential wind turbine can cut the homeowner’s electrical bill in half. Wind turbine owners can reduce their utility costs to less than $20 for nine months during the year. The cost savings for a home wind product is based on the installation cost, the electric usage of the homeowner, and the amount of wind present at the home site. An average home having all modern electrical appliances uses about 9400 kWh of electricity per year (783 kWh per month). Assuming reasonable wind speeds throughout the year, a wind turbine of 5 kW to 15 kW power output would provide the required electricity. If you create more energy than you use, your power company might pay you to sell them the extra power.
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The map above gives a great indication of general areas that receive a good amount of wind, but the immediate surroundings are vitally important too. A wind turbine must be able to function unimpeded from trees, hills, buildings or anything else that might affect the wind. Good sites for wind turbines would be hilltops, plains, fields, and ocean fronts. Anything close to a forest, city, or valley would run the risk of not getting a strong enough wind.

Best of all, the package embodies almost all the accessories- from blades and nose cone to hex key and bolts. The only drawback of this low budget turbine is its inability to start up at low wind speed. On the opposite end of the spectrum, once it starts, it keeps producing energy ceaselessly. However, its affordable price and the included big and tiny constituents have earned a great Thumbs Up from a lot of users.
A typical house usually requires a home wind turbine with a 5 kW generating capacity to meet all its energy requirements. A turbine that offers this much power would have to be around 13 to 18 feet in diameter and positioned in an area where strong winds often pass through. There are also plenty of smaller, cheaper turbines, but these variants produce less power and are less reliable than their more expensive counterparts.
If you do install an anemometer and measure the wind over one or more years, you should compare the annual average wind speed obtained from your anemometer data to the annual average of the nearest airport or meteo-station for that same year. This will tell you if your site is more or less windy than that airport or meteo-station, and by how much. Then compare that year’s data  to the long-term annual average wind speed, and you will know what to expect over the long term, corrected for your particular site. It will not be exact, but it will make your short-term anemometer data much more useful.
After the photons are transformed into electricity, the panels direct this energy to power the home. Some homes, those independent of the utility grid, must rely on battery storage to store energy, yet they may also have to rely on backup generators when there is too much demand on the size of the system. Many people use solar in tandem with the utility companies so that they have a convenient back-up during fluctuating periods of energy. This net metering partnership is a bit involved, but it has also been evolving to become more effective as more and more people choose solar to provide the bulk of electricity to power their homes.

My position is that solar is not good enough for places that are not sunny most of the year, and that includes most of the North East USA. In a few years, when the panel efficiency gets greater with the retail sale of dual-gate and possibly tri-gate or more gate solar panels, then we will have something. Folks should install what works right for their area, and in much of the US, solar is a good idea; just not all of it, not yet.

Thanks for the write up. Very interesting. Being concerned about the carbon output as well, has there been any research into the CO2 produced in the production of the material being installed? I was really convicted about this concern when I started considering the CO2 given off by things like spray foam on building projects I have done in the past.