At the back side I made a big circular hole just behind the inverter fan for fresh air suction from out side .Later I covered the hole by using plastic wire mesh.Few small holes are also made for inserting the wires from solar panel,charge controller and inverter to the battery and ac out put to the appliances.At the both sides panel 3 horizontal holes are provided for sufficient ventilation. A glass window is provided at the front side to view the different led indications in the inverter.
The Wind Energy Payback Period Workbook is a Microsoft Excel spreadsheet tool that can help you analyze the economics of a small wind electric system and decide whether wind energy will work for you. It asks you to provide information about how you will finance the system, the characteristics of your site, and the properties of the system you're considering. It then provides you with a simple payback estimation (assumes no increase in electricity rates) in years. If the number of years required to regain your capital investment is greater than or almost equal to the life of the system, then wind energy will not be practical for you.
A battery will extend the payback. Batteries don’t last as long as panels and can carry a significant cost. In exchange for the cost, you get backup power for your house. My personal system, which is a bit of a cadillac and has a large lithium-ion battery backup (the most expensive upfront, but also the most resilient and longest-lasting), carries a payback period of about 20 years. I also have significant shading issues. So my house is pretty close to a worst-case scenario, and I end up with a whole-house generator that never runs out of fuel and will at least pay for itself over its lifetime.
In any generator whether it be a re manufactured delco permanent magnet alternator, our white lightning radial or even the larger axial flux designs different wire gauges can be used and are used for different reason for a given application. It is important also to understand that generally speaking when you are looking at a permanent magnet alternator for sale on our site ebay youtube Amazon ect when you see a voltage advertised such as frequently 12, 24, and 48 models this usually does not mean that there is some sort of internal regulator which limits the output voltage of the generator or pma to an adequate charging voltage level for an application This is one of the biggest mistake we see do it yourselfers make when selecting a generator. Typically sellers and manufacturers rate a permanent magnet alternator as for instance 12 volt when the RPM range of the generator is sufficient to reach Cut in Voltage to charge a given battery bank. Windmill, wind generators, wind chargers, or residential wind turbine kits terms we often see used interchangeably are trying to tell you that in a direct drive application with a particular blade set that they would use a particular generator for an application. So what’s the difference? Any style generator has a capacity “slots” or area that a winding can fit in. This will be unique to the particular generator. It is important to understand that within the working area different wire gauges can be used. In the area of the generator windings more “ turns” wraps or whatever terminology you prefer can fit in a given area with finer wire that with thicker wire as a matter of what will physically fit in a given stator coil, wrap , winding and or slot “again whatever terminology is appropriate for the given alternator.
Although the calculation of wind power illustrates important features about wind turbines, the best measure of wind turbine performance is annual energy output. The difference between power and energy is that power (kilowatts [kW]) is the rate at which electricity is consumed while energy (kilowatt-hours [kWh]) is the quantity consumed. An estimate of the annual energy output from your wind turbine, kWh/year, is the best way to determine whether a particular wind turbine and tower will produce enough electricity to meet your needs. Contact a wind turbine manufacturer, a dealer/installer, or a site assessor to help you estimate the energy production you can expect. They will use a calculation based on the particular wind turbine power curve, the average annual wind speed at your site, the height of the tower that you plan to use, micro-siting characteristics of your site and, if available, the frequency distribution of the wind (an estimate of the number of hours that the wind will blow at each speed during an average year). They should also adjust this calculation for the elevation of your site.
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Even in my neighborhood in a small town, where once nice homes are now rentals, I have noticed by flying kites that there are very specific 'wind tunnels' in my back yard, on the side of my house (between properties) and around the corners of my house. I think putting vertical spiraled panels at each corner of my house from ground to roof, along with a horizontal turbine in the middle of my backyard between the trees where there is a permanent opening would provide alot of wind power. I also think each each person needs to start testing the winds that belong to their house every month of the year with kites: big ones, little ones, heavy and light ones. If you have kids, dogs, or especially Kitty cats, you will have a blast doing your "wind study". I sure did. I had a yard full of cats grabbing kite tails and running off with them! I found optimal wind lift at 15 feet in some areas. It has alot to do with the building that has taken place around you, and the very specific currents produced from that design. It's likje your very own wind footprint.
Cells are usually sold in lots of 36, 100 or 108.  Stay away from 100 cell lots if you are going to be building the typical 36 volt panel.  A set of 108 cells will be enough to make 3 standard 36 cell panels.  I also recommend buying cells that are already tabbed.  “Tabs” are the thin pieces of metal attached to the cell for wiring them together.  Buying pre-tabbed cells will make the wiring much easier.  It is worth paying a little extra to get pre-tabbed cells.
After the calculating the battery capacity and solar panel rating you have to wiring them.In many cases the calculated solar panel size or battery is not readily available in the form of single unit in the market.So you have to add small solar panel or batteries to match your system requirement.To match the required voltage and current rating we have to use series and parallel connection.
20 Feb 2015 at 7:52pm --> . . // – Wind Turbines are our specialty, we invented the Wind Turbine Kit. wind turbines are the most productive way to power your home. If you are in a wind zone 2 or above we recommend a hybrid wind/solar wind turbine system for your home. Wind turbines are wind turbines used for […]

However, there are tiny ones (1kW – 2kW) that are available from $800 upwards. These turbines come with a small start up speed and torque to provide optimum power output in regular conditions. Although they may not provide for luxurious power usage for an average household, they can pretty much meet some of your electricity needs throughout the year. These are ideal for consumers living in remote areas. Most small wind generator suppliers charge no more than $300 for shipping.

What is a small wind turbine? Anything under, say, 10 meters rotor diameter (30 feet) is well within the “small wind” category. That works out to wind turbines with a rated power up to around 20 kW (at 11 m/s, or 25 mph). For larger wind turbines the manufacturers are usually a little more honest, and more money is available to do a good site analysis. The information in this article is generic: The same applies to all the other brands and models, be they of the HAWT (Horizontal Axis Wind Turbine) or VAWT (Vertical Axis Wind Turbine) persuasion.

Estimate the energy output of a wind turbine. We mentioned a simple equation earlier that can give a rough idea of how much energy that can be produced. This equation is helpful at the early decision making stage, but if you are truly serious about getting a wind turbine then there is a more accurate way of estimating the performance of particular turbines. This equation will allow you to see if it is a viable proposition. The equation is:

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There are also DIY solar kits for full-size homes (3kW – 5 kW) that have a larger electricity load (average residential solar size in the U.S. is approximately 6 kWs). These kits come with the same top of the line panels and inverters that you would get from a professional installer. People enjoy the thrill that comes from disconnecting from the grid or having back-up power. DIY solar can also generate energy savings depending on where you live and reduce the overall installation cost relative to a professional installation if you have the expertise to install the system.
Infinitemall stands behind their products and is willing to bend over backwards to help the customer. I live in rural Alaska, power here is very expensive and is generated mainly by diesel generators. My family and I are constructing a grid-tied alternative energy home. Outback Inverters and charge controllers are at the heart of the system, with a total of 8KW in solar panels and 5kw in wind generators. I have also constructed a D/C generator using an old 4 wheeler motor and 2 MWS Freedom II Generals that produces an easy 3.5kw at low engine rpms. The system totals close to 20kw in all. I purchased this wind mill to replace an older wind mill that I had built a few years ago using Windy Nations PMG. When I received the wind generator, I was disappointed to find that the center hole for the shaft had not been machined. Infintemall was very helpful, they got a new turbine out to me right away, and even paid for the defective unit to be returned. All said and done, they are a great company to deal with and I would highly recommend their turbine. It is very quiet, and quite powerful.
There are 2 other problems that he has not mentioned, and should be. The first is degradation. Solar panels will be less powerful over time. The rule of thumb is 1% a year. Certainly future tech can, and likely will ameliorate that, but today 1% is a solid number. The second problem is that, for his carbon calculations, he does not consider the energy cost in making the panels. It takes a lot of energy to make the panels, and while I am a fan, installing them in low stability areas is not “good for the planet”. To say it another way, you don’t get enough energy out of them in places like Vancouver, as compared to New Mexico, to justify the energy lost to make, transport, and install them. One also should consider what do do after the panels are done, and what to do with the toxic metals in them. My point here is that they are not perfect nor clean. Each power option has it’s drawbacks, even if all of them are not carbon emissions.
Because residential solar energy systems are a big investment, you’ll want the system installed correctly and to full functionality. With this type of investment, it seems more effective to rely on the professionals who do these types of installations daily. Most residential solar systems can be installed in about two days. And solar consultants will monitor your energy usage and recommend the best system for your needs and the best placement to optimize solar energy conversion.
Without a deep cycle battery system, you will be unable to store the electricity that your solar power unit generates. This means basically that you will only have power when the sun is shining. Deep cycle batteries are specially configured to be charged and discharged frequently with a high demand system like a solar power system. The battery monitor provides a visual gauge of the electricity generated and stored by your solar power system, while the solar charge controller manages the process of charging your deep cycle batteries making sure they receive just the right amount of power but controlled and regulated throughout the day.
If you haven’t correctly judged the condition of your roof, you could face additional expenses for repairs, and might even have to redo the entire installation after getting a new roof. Installing solar panels incorrectly can also cause new problems, like roof leaks. A professional installer knows how to install solar panels without causing costly roof damage—and you have the peace of mind that if anything did go wrong, they’ll cover the cost of fixing it.
These are just little flat boxes that you connect to the top of each pair of rails, about 6″ from the eventual right edge of each solar panel. There’s one optimizer for each panel, and it acts like a babysitter – monitoring output from the panel, compensating for voltage changes when necessary (such as when shade hits that panel). You’ll notice that each optimizer has four wires protruding from it, and there’s one optimizer for each panel. This will make sense in the next step.
Your goal is to expose the solar panel to as much sunlight as possible. First and foremost, this means you need to avoid shade - one panel in the shade can affect the efficiency of the entire system. Be sure to keep details in mind: Will the neighbor's big oak tree grow in the next ten years? Will something that's out of the way at this very second be casting a shadow later in the day? You also need to consider the qualities of your roof. In order to get the most direct sunlight, your panels should point towards the equator (South, in the Northern hemisphere) - will your roof accommodate this? And is the roof big enough to hold your panels? Another, more obscure consideration is your homeowner's association. Some people think solar panels are an eyesore (personally, I think they make your house look great) and may have banned them in your neighborhood.
If your wind turbine is connected to the local utility grid so that any of the power produced by your wind turbine is delivered to the grid, then your utility also has legitimate concerns about safety and power quality that need to be addressed. The utility's principal concern is that your wind turbine automatically stops delivering any electricity to its power lines during a power outage. Otherwise line workers and the public, thinking that the line is "dead," might not take normal precautions and might be hurt or even killed by the power from your turbine. Another concern among utilities is whether the power from your facility synchronizes properly with the utility grid and it matches the utility's power in terms of voltage, frequency, and power quality.
The second most popular solution is to have a battery installation that gets charged during the sunny hours, and then when it gets dark you can switch to an inverter which changes your stored DC voltage into AC voltage for your appliances. Most solar reliant houses will have DC LED lighting to make the most of the lower power consumption of these efficient lighting products.
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VAWT type turbines have no inherent advantage over HAWT type turbines. There, we have said it! VAWTs do not do any better in turbulent wind than HAWTs. Leaving the Savonius type VAWTs out (the type that looks like an oil drum cut in half – they have very poor efficiency anyway), both horizontal and vertical type turbines rely on an airfoil, a wing, to produce power. Airfoils simply do not work well in turbulent air; the wind needs to hit them at just the right angle and eddies wreak havoc. Couple that with the insistence of vertical axis turbine manufacturers to install their devices on very short towers or rooftops, and you get the picture. It will not work.

“Do I need some of those Tesla Powerwall Batteries too?” No. Unless you’re building an off-the-grid cabin, in almost all cases you will want to “grid-tie” your solar array, so you can effectively sell your surplus electricity back to the power company (and thus, other nearby customers), cleaning up your whole town and saving the huge cost of batteries. The Powerwall works great if you want protection from power outages, however, and can even pay for itself if you live somewhere with a smart grid that allows day/night price arbitrage.
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There are also DIY solar kits for full-size homes (3kW – 5 kW) that have a larger electricity load (average residential solar size in the U.S. is approximately 6 kWs). These kits come with the same top of the line panels and inverters that you would get from a professional installer. People enjoy the thrill that comes from disconnecting from the grid or having back-up power. DIY solar can also generate energy savings depending on where you live and reduce the overall installation cost relative to a professional installation if you have the expertise to install the system.

Equipped with a 3-phase External Rectifier pigtail. This small black connector on the back of the unit allows you to run less costly 3-conductor wire to your battery location instead of large heavy battery cables in addition to lessening the voltage loss you get with DC power. Once at the battery location the 3-phase power is fed into the included Charge Controller and is converted to DC for connection to the battery.